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	<title>Comments on: Anti-roll Bar Schematic</title>
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		<title>By: Nick</title>
		<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/1149/comment-page-1#comment-38876</link>
		<dc:creator>Nick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Apr 2011 11:43:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/?p=1149#comment-38876</guid>
		<description>Sorry about the wait, Kevan, but I have been flat out at work and studying a bit at home for for my six-monthly emergency sim-checks at work, as well as trying to get the Lightweight running and rebuilding the RRC&#039;s brakes...

The anti-roll bar&#039;s diameter is 20mm.  The lateral section of the bar is straight and it starts to bend 25mm after passing clear of the outboard face of each chassis rail, the centreline of the bar being 75mm clear of the chassis rail at the point where the vertical links connect (ie. the bends are less than 90 degrees).  The distance between the centre of the D-bushes (axis of bar) and the vertical link connection is 220mm.  The vertical links are connected with track rod ends, so the bar needs to be flattened to allow the securing nuts to seat correctly and needs to be drilled in a tapered fashion with the same dimensions and angle as the holes in the steering relay/box drop arms or the swivel housings&#039; steering arms.  I have no idea of what grade steel is used in such a bar, but any of the ARB manufacturers should be able to supply such information about their own products - I imagine that the grade would be an industry standard and that different thicknesses are used for different stiffnesses.  Since you now have the diameter of the original part, you would be able to have a bar made up that would have similar qualities as the original.  Since this is an optional piece of equipment and is not safety critical, exact matching is unimportant. 

The vertical links between the axle and the ARB are 230mm long and are simply threaded tubes with a damper eye on one end and a standard steering rod end on the other.  If you can&#039;t get a complete genuine ambulance system, then I&#039;m pretty sure that a track rod or drag link cut down to that length with the eyes from a scrap damper welded to the plain end would be quite sufficient.  The genuine links don&#039;t have slits in the threaded section and don&#039;t use clamps to grip the steering rod end - the rods can&#039;t turn in service lie an un-clamped steering rod could, but a track rod would be strong enough to serve the purpose as long as you used tha clamps - otherwise the rod won&#039;t grip the rod ends&#039; threads well enough and the rod could splay along those splits and the rod end could potentially be pulled out of the correct position; you&#039;d need to clamp the modified rod in the same was as when used on a steering system just to make sure the threads were kept tight against the rod ends&#039; threads.  

The bottom plates under the springs are just standard front axle plates, so you can get those from any scrap Series LR.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry about the wait, Kevan, but I have been flat out at work and studying a bit at home for for my six-monthly emergency sim-checks at work, as well as trying to get the Lightweight running and rebuilding the RRC&#8217;s brakes&#8230;</p>
<p>The anti-roll bar&#8217;s diameter is 20mm.  The lateral section of the bar is straight and it starts to bend 25mm after passing clear of the outboard face of each chassis rail, the centreline of the bar being 75mm clear of the chassis rail at the point where the vertical links connect (ie. the bends are less than 90 degrees).  The distance between the centre of the D-bushes (axis of bar) and the vertical link connection is 220mm.  The vertical links are connected with track rod ends, so the bar needs to be flattened to allow the securing nuts to seat correctly and needs to be drilled in a tapered fashion with the same dimensions and angle as the holes in the steering relay/box drop arms or the swivel housings&#8217; steering arms.  I have no idea of what grade steel is used in such a bar, but any of the ARB manufacturers should be able to supply such information about their own products &#8211; I imagine that the grade would be an industry standard and that different thicknesses are used for different stiffnesses.  Since you now have the diameter of the original part, you would be able to have a bar made up that would have similar qualities as the original.  Since this is an optional piece of equipment and is not safety critical, exact matching is unimportant. </p>
<p>The vertical links between the axle and the ARB are 230mm long and are simply threaded tubes with a damper eye on one end and a standard steering rod end on the other.  If you can&#8217;t get a complete genuine ambulance system, then I&#8217;m pretty sure that a track rod or drag link cut down to that length with the eyes from a scrap damper welded to the plain end would be quite sufficient.  The genuine links don&#8217;t have slits in the threaded section and don&#8217;t use clamps to grip the steering rod end &#8211; the rods can&#8217;t turn in service lie an un-clamped steering rod could, but a track rod would be strong enough to serve the purpose as long as you used tha clamps &#8211; otherwise the rod won&#8217;t grip the rod ends&#8217; threads well enough and the rod could splay along those splits and the rod end could potentially be pulled out of the correct position; you&#8217;d need to clamp the modified rod in the same was as when used on a steering system just to make sure the threads were kept tight against the rod ends&#8217; threads.  </p>
<p>The bottom plates under the springs are just standard front axle plates, so you can get those from any scrap Series LR.</p>
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		<title>By: Kevan</title>
		<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/1149/comment-page-1#comment-38341</link>
		<dc:creator>Kevan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Apr 2011 19:56:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/?p=1149#comment-38341</guid>
		<description>Wow, cheers Nick, much appreciated.  I&#039;m just in the throes of sprucing all of the component parts up on mine.  It&#039;s amazing what a new coat of paint does :-)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wow, cheers Nick, much appreciated.  I&#8217;m just in the throes of sprucing all of the component parts up on mine.  It&#8217;s amazing what a new coat of paint does <img src='http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Nick</title>
		<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/1149/comment-page-1#comment-37621</link>
		<dc:creator>Nick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 01 Apr 2011 11:31:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/?p=1149#comment-37621</guid>
		<description>I&#039;ll try to take some basic measurements this afternoon.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ll try to take some basic measurements this afternoon.</p>
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		<title>By: Kevan</title>
		<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/1149/comment-page-1#comment-37479</link>
		<dc:creator>Kevan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 31 Mar 2011 13:39:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/?p=1149#comment-37479</guid>
		<description>Thank you Nick.  It has certainly got one of the guys at Britpart puzzled :)  I enquired with them about the possibility of getting some new polybushes for my ARB.  Poor guy thought I was making it up or something.  It does make sense that the ARB&#039;s would be specific to the ambulances.  I think I may be able to get some universal bushes from Superflex.  I just need to make sure of my measurements.

Once again, great site, well done.

Take care.

Kevan</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you Nick.  It has certainly got one of the guys at Britpart puzzled <img src='http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' />   I enquired with them about the possibility of getting some new polybushes for my ARB.  Poor guy thought I was making it up or something.  It does make sense that the ARB&#8217;s would be specific to the ambulances.  I think I may be able to get some universal bushes from Superflex.  I just need to make sure of my measurements.</p>
<p>Once again, great site, well done.</p>
<p>Take care.</p>
<p>Kevan</p>
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		<title>By: Nick</title>
		<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/1149/comment-page-1#comment-36818</link>
		<dc:creator>Nick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 27 Mar 2011 16:23:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/?p=1149#comment-36818</guid>
		<description>Thanks, Kevan.

The drawings were obtained from a member of an internet forum and are specific to the 109 Ambulance.  They would not be in the standard Workshop Manual or Parts Catalogue, but should show up in the Optional parts Catalogue and Ambulance Workshop/User Manual.  

Small numbers of 109 ambulances were made for civil users, but the vast majority were for the MoD.  I really don&#039;t know whether or not the civilian ambulances had this equipment, though I would assume they did, but it was standard on MoD ambulances.  That may limit the diagrams to MoD manuals, but I&#039;m sure someone like Dunsfold Land Rover or PA Blanchard would be able to help with more information, diagrams and complete manual pages.

Nick.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks, Kevan.</p>
<p>The drawings were obtained from a member of an internet forum and are specific to the 109 Ambulance.  They would not be in the standard Workshop Manual or Parts Catalogue, but should show up in the Optional parts Catalogue and Ambulance Workshop/User Manual.  </p>
<p>Small numbers of 109 ambulances were made for civil users, but the vast majority were for the MoD.  I really don&#8217;t know whether or not the civilian ambulances had this equipment, though I would assume they did, but it was standard on MoD ambulances.  That may limit the diagrams to MoD manuals, but I&#8217;m sure someone like Dunsfold Land Rover or PA Blanchard would be able to help with more information, diagrams and complete manual pages.</p>
<p>Nick.</p>
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