My project is going to bee a “sleeper”, I wish to keep interior and exterior as close to original as possible. Therefore I would like to use the original series 3 steering column and steering wheel.

Do you have any idea about splines compability between p38 and series 3. If it´s impossible to get the pieces together, I can change steering box and go for the defender type instaed, but what about splines compability.

Patrik

I found an Irishman on LR4×4.com who is doing the same steering set up, but he is, realistically, a couple of years away from completing his rebuild. The P38 box fits the chassis very well, though. I have since heard anecdotal comments about one or two people who have done this scheme with no negative comments, but the feedback was very limited. I think it’s just too rare a combination to get much public information.

If the pressure is too low, then the PAS will be heavier than designed, but should still work. If the pressure is too high, then there is the potential to damage seals and valves, but that seems unlikely. Any deficiency in flow rate from the Tdi PAS pump will manifest itself as a reduction in steering assistance at large, quick inputs, but small inputs should not be affected. That means that the steering will not get full assistance when going from lock to lock rapidly, which only happens when manoeuvring in tight spaces at low speed; this should not pose much problem if it occurs as it will still be easier than with manual steering. I suspect it will work very well, but will do more digging.

The other option is to use a Defender/Discovery/RRC PAS box of the opposite side drive (ie. LHD for UK, Aussie or South African vehicles, RHD box for European or American). The bolt holes will go through the chassis, rather than above and below, but a thick spreader plate and crush tubes would deal with that.

Nick.

I have one question wich I have tried to find an answer to from the net, but whithout success.
Does the steering pump from the Discovery 1997 work together whith the p38 steering box in terms of pressure, flow capacity etc.?
I would like to use the original steering pump mounted on the 300tdi engine, since I then can use the original 300tdi belt.

Super web site you have here. If you are interested I can send you pictures.

I’m very familiar with Teriann’s 109 and her site, and have discussed several other issues with her on a forum we both frequent (expeditionportal.com). It was the power steering article on her site that gave me the idea of using a P38 steering box outboard of the chassis instead of following the usual route of fitting a Defender box inboard, necessitating the removal of the front cross member.

However, I have no intention of a spring-over-axle conversion as this would cause numerous problems for no benefit, principally vehicle stability, vehicle entry and the steering connections.

With my combination of 1-ton suspension and parabolic springs, the vehicle is already at the same height as a Defender on heavy duty springs, and any further lift would be very awkward to live with.

Spring over axle conversions are really only useful if you use flatter springs and modify the chassis’ suspension mounts to keep a similar ride height – the flat springs are more compliant than if cambered, and the raised mountings reduce body roll when cornering and on side slopes. A spring-over-axle conversion made to increase ride height is dangerous, though, because it severely increases body roll, massively decreases side slope capability, increases axle sway and side loads on the leaf springs and bushes, worsens axle tramp (which reduces braking effectiveness) and has all sorts of mechanical knock-ons like steering, dampers, UJ wear and so on, all for no gain in ground clearance because the diffs and axles are still in the same place.

I bought an American published book about 4wd suspension and steering modification, and while Land Rovers were completely omitted, there were plenty of other leaf and coil sprung vehicles to draw parallels from. What was clear was that the US trend for big lifts (a fashion that is increasingly common here), even where using off-the-shelf kits for that specific vehicle, are usually ill-conceived and poorly executed, resulting in dangerous vehicles. Issues like fitting severely sloped drag links, severely sloped panhard rods on leaf sprung vehicles, tall spacers between springs and axles on spring-over conversions… all are common place in the US and are of fundamentally flawed design. An interesting and amusing site for similar but amateur conversions of shocking DIY lifts is here: http://128.83.80.193/scarysteering/index.html

Thanks for the suggestion of contacting Teriann – she is a very knowledgeable and experienced Land Rover owner.

Nick.