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	<title>Comments on: Fitting a Defender Heater</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/423/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/423</link>
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		<title>By: Nick</title>
		<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/423/comment-page-1#comment-57645</link>
		<dc:creator>Nick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Jun 2011 16:54:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/2006/09/13/fitting-a-defender-heater/#comment-57645</guid>
		<description>I don&#039;t think you can do it quite that way, but if you&#039;re keen to use the original SIII wing intake, I suspect you could (perhaps with a litlle trimming and fabrication work) fit the Defender matrix to the SIII housing and the Defender blower motor and impeller to the SIII blower casing.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I don&#8217;t think you can do it quite that way, but if you&#8217;re keen to use the original SIII wing intake, I suspect you could (perhaps with a litlle trimming and fabrication work) fit the Defender matrix to the SIII housing and the Defender blower motor and impeller to the SIII blower casing.</p>
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		<title>By: oldbanger71</title>
		<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/423/comment-page-1#comment-57010</link>
		<dc:creator>oldbanger71</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Jun 2011 12:16:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/2006/09/13/fitting-a-defender-heater/#comment-57010</guid>
		<description>if you consider to replicate the heater conversion, connected to the standard S III intake, then get in contact with someone in Germany or switzerland who wants to do the same, so they could exchange the intakes and keep the cost low.
About taking the air from passenger footwell recycling problem :
one could do so but connect a hose from original S III intake to the footwell intake with a flap to control fresh air supplye, so you get both recycling and fresh air supplye.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>if you consider to replicate the heater conversion, connected to the standard S III intake, then get in contact with someone in Germany or switzerland who wants to do the same, so they could exchange the intakes and keep the cost low.<br />
About taking the air from passenger footwell recycling problem :<br />
one could do so but connect a hose from original S III intake to the footwell intake with a flap to control fresh air supplye, so you get both recycling and fresh air supplye.</p>
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		<title>By: Edward Parrott</title>
		<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/423/comment-page-1#comment-48835</link>
		<dc:creator>Edward Parrott</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 May 2011 11:49:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/2006/09/13/fitting-a-defender-heater/#comment-48835</guid>
		<description>Hi Nick,  I&#039;ve read your site with great interest many times, cracking work!

I&#039;ve just installed a Defender heater assembly in my 109 SW, I&#039;ve used a RHD assembly, but split the motor off the casing and turned it 90degrees like the Series blower.  I&#039;ve fabricated a bracket to hold it to the footwell, and a ducting to the orginal matrix housing.  It seems to work ok, but I think I could have done better....I&#039;ll be doing a mark 2 version for my other 109!  Just got the wiring to do now, but it works straight off battery.

Cheers</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Nick,  I&#8217;ve read your site with great interest many times, cracking work!</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve just installed a Defender heater assembly in my 109 SW, I&#8217;ve used a RHD assembly, but split the motor off the casing and turned it 90degrees like the Series blower.  I&#8217;ve fabricated a bracket to hold it to the footwell, and a ducting to the orginal matrix housing.  It seems to work ok, but I think I could have done better&#8230;.I&#8217;ll be doing a mark 2 version for my other 109!  Just got the wiring to do now, but it works straight off battery.</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
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		<title>By: Nick</title>
		<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/423/comment-page-1#comment-35705</link>
		<dc:creator>Nick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Mar 2011 09:35:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/2006/09/13/fitting-a-defender-heater/#comment-35705</guid>
		<description>Hi David,

I took measurements from a Defender, of the distance from the bulkhead to the rear of the intake and from the outboard edge of the intake to the joint between wing top and wing side panel and transferred these measurements to the SIII wing top (covered in masking tape to prevent scratching when cutting and also to make drawing easier).  Remember to allow for the thickness of the edge of the intake grille - it and the duct below need an overlap of aluminium to screw into.  The hole was cut using a drill to make pilot holes and a jigsaw.

I used 17A wiring and fuse for the motor control, connecting the purple motor wire (permanent live) via the fuse to the battery terminal on the starter motor solenoid.  The striped green wires connect to the SIII wires of the same colour, and you then disconnect the live from the SIII switch and connect that terminal to earth (the Defender unit is wired backwards compared to the SIII, where the switch runs to earth instead of the motor, increasing efficiency and also extending switch life).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi David,</p>
<p>I took measurements from a Defender, of the distance from the bulkhead to the rear of the intake and from the outboard edge of the intake to the joint between wing top and wing side panel and transferred these measurements to the SIII wing top (covered in masking tape to prevent scratching when cutting and also to make drawing easier).  Remember to allow for the thickness of the edge of the intake grille &#8211; it and the duct below need an overlap of aluminium to screw into.  The hole was cut using a drill to make pilot holes and a jigsaw.</p>
<p>I used 17A wiring and fuse for the motor control, connecting the purple motor wire (permanent live) via the fuse to the battery terminal on the starter motor solenoid.  The striped green wires connect to the SIII wires of the same colour, and you then disconnect the live from the SIII switch and connect that terminal to earth (the Defender unit is wired backwards compared to the SIII, where the switch runs to earth instead of the motor, increasing efficiency and also extending switch life).</p>
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		<title>By: Darren</title>
		<link>http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/423/comment-page-1#comment-35387</link>
		<dc:creator>Darren</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Mar 2011 18:59:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/2006/09/13/fitting-a-defender-heater/#comment-35387</guid>
		<description>Hi Nick
What are size of the two trays that you used for the speed circuits
And what is the best way to to cut wing for defender intake top and scoop
Thanks Darren</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Nick<br />
What are size of the two trays that you used for the speed circuits<br />
And what is the best way to to cut wing for defender intake top and scoop<br />
Thanks Darren</p>
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