Engine Oil Leak Remedy

The oil leaks from the engine appear to have been from the lader frame joints, either from it’s face with the sump, or, more likely, from its joint with the block. With the gearbox off, access to the four horizontal bolts into the rear of the ladder frame allowed the removal of the ladder to try to cure the fault.

I have used the same sealant that Turner Engineering use for that joint. It’s expensive stuff, but hopefully it’ll last a bit longer than the silicone I previously used. The oil pump needs to be refitted before the sump can go back on, but I need a new gasket for the pump’s neck first.

Something that became apparent on refitting the ladder was the reason for the fluctuations in oil level readings. When the oil had been read as low, just a small spalsh tended to raise the stick level above the “”MAX” mark, usually stopping at the twist on the stick. I suspect that the ladder frame is making air cavities, and the level is changing in the sump when the oil filler cap is removed. I also suspect that the oil level may generally be too high, as the “MIN” mark is roughly level with the sump/ladder joint, and I doubt the ladder is meant to comprise part of the sump. This may be a significant factor in the oil loss, as it seems to stabilise at close to the “MIN” mark. This means that the correct level may be where the “MIN” mark is.

I also replaced the spiggot bush. The clutch needs to be removed first to gain access. I tried to use various tools as pullers, but couldn’t gain the purchase on the bush, so in the end I resorted to the more traditional method of Land Rover parts removal: knock great holes in it with a hammer and chisel until it comes out! With a slot chiselled from front to rear along one side of the relatively soft metal, the bush was easy to pull out. The new bush was drifted in with the spare primary pinion and rubber mallet, and given a smear of copper grease. The clutch was then refitted, using the pinion as a centring tool.