I wanted to check different colour schemes for the new wheels (Range Rover Classic LSE and CSK, also used on the Defender 90SV), with the options of plain silver (like the 90SV), gloss black centres (like on black LSEs) or matt black centres. The photo-shop attempts didn’t all come out that well, but the plain silver worked well enough to give an idea. To be honest, it seems the best choice anyway; not only will it be cheapest and not show defects or water drying marks like black, but the matt black looks too rough and the gloss black a little to fussy and too much like the wheels on chav/drug dealer BMWs. It will also allow me to use the wheels as replacements for the Range Rover’s current TWR alloys should they ever be damaged or stolen. The only thing the photo doesn’t reflect properly is that the centre caps would have to be omitted from the rear wheels. I’d use black centres on the front (like on Range Rovers) to match the rear.
For the wheels to fit the Salisbury axle, I have had to use spacer rings (turned down scrap brake drums) and Wolf wheel studs. This is because the shape of the interior of the wheel is too shallow for the early style hubs (grinding the hubs is common practice, but it could seriously weaken the wheel and so was out of the question). The hubs had to be removed for the studs to be swapped, but it didn’t take long to do the job. The axle was test fitted with two of the alloy wheels and they fit perfectly. I left the wheels on just in case I knock the axle off its stands while I start work on the front axle. That will need slightly more parts than hoped; the right side swivel has a notch in its movement at the straight ahead position, and I will only be able to tell if it’s the CV joint or swivel bearings once the hub, stub axle and half shaft have been removed. At least the left side is smooth and free of play.
Hey Nick. I’m from Belgium, so excuse me for my bad writting. As i also had a Series and i used your ‘Fairey overhaul’ as a guide and i can only say: capital stuff’ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
But … sold the Series 3 and drive a Defender 110 TD5 now. Last weekend, i bought some nice rims and they are exactly the same ones i found in your post here. Love those rims!!! But … back home in Belgium, seems like the rims don’t fit the TD5 hub. Sad …
Went to the local tire shop and he told me that the alu rim should be drilled out about 2 cm to fit nicely over the TD5 hub. So … the rims are now with a local handy man that can drill the 5 rims out about 2 cm so they fit the hub / axel. My question: should i need to fit longer studs to or no? And if yes, can it be done with the brake calipers on or does the whole hub need to be removed. Sugestions welcome. And euh … keep up the good work Nick! Even here in Belgium, many LR enthusiasts refer to your site! 😉
I’m glad the overdrive rebuild guide was useful. I’m surprised the wheels didn’t fit the hubs – they were used on the 90SV which was a 200TDI model. They had the old axle type with thick hubs and flanges, like my rear axle, so I suspect that LRmust have used RRC or Discovery axles with ye thinner hubs and domed flanges like my front axle, which fit the wheels without alteration. I thought the 300TDI and TD5 hubs and flanges were thin enough to take the wheels – the hang up on the old hubs is about 3mm short, and the later hubs must be at least 12mm shallower.
If you modify the wheels, be very careful to remove the minimum amount of material to avoid weakening them. I doubt you’ll need to replace the studs as the wheels will butt up against the hub flange; I fit longer studs to my rear axle because I used 6mm spacer discs as an alternative to altering the wheels.
Thanks for the comments about the site – it’ very flattering to hear it is used widely, especially abroad where language would make it a little more difficult to use.
Good luck with he wheels!