I have been using the Range Rover a bit more recently, and the starting problem and engine surging had both become markedly worse. Having the 109 in the bodyshop has allowed me to focus on getting this vehicle sorted out.
The starting issue of the starter rapidly clacking in and out like a machine gun has been going on for years, and initially saw the replacement of the starter motor and relay, and was also later followed by replacement of the alarm/immobiliser (because of the key fobs failing), so the only part not replaced was the ignition switch. A lot of electrical testing had shown nothing other than intermittent voltage at the ignition switch feed when cranking the engine under certain circumstances. I had wondered if the battery was providing insufficient power to operate the starter solenoid and motor simultaneously, whith the current draw from the motor causing the solenoid to open, isolating the motor, which dropped the battery demand sufficiently for the solenoid to close again and so on in rapid succession. Tests by the local battery supplier showed good battery health, but I finally bit the bullet and replaced the battery anyway. The result is rapid, reliable starting with no more trouble. I think the old battery was taking a surface charge, but was unable to produce much current.
The 300Tdi engine surging at mid revs (1600-1800 and 2000-2200) when driving at a steady speed was getting much more severe, almost like a learner driver “kangarooing” after bad clutch use. I had replaced the relatively new (genuine) lift pump, which had failed completely within a couple of months, with no noticeable effect. Removing the injectors showed coke build up on their tips, and the number four was a soggy black mess. They were all cleaned up and a couple of strong doses of injector cleaner were added to the next two fuel fill-ups, but this had no effect. Fitting a new set of Bosch injectors seems to have cured it, though. The old units must have been pretty worn out, having done 150,000 miles – I think the manuals say they should be replaced at 92,000, so I got my money’s worth out of them. The engine barely needs to turn over to start now, even when cold.
The cost of both jobs was about £280, which I could have done without, but it’s satisfying to have such improved engine starting and running, and I’m sure the work will be reflected in the fuel consumption, which had become quite high.
I have a question. Since you are talking about your classic
I would like to ask you if you have any idea how I could
lower the seat height of my ’95 Classic LWB? As you probably
know most people hit their heads or have to drive with their
heads at an angle just to clear the headliner. Now I have
seen others suggest different seats and I plan on doing just
that but I wanted to know if a drastic way of lowering the
seat could be done. I was thinking that after I remove
everything from the seat base then could I cut the floor and
just reverse the cut portion. Welding it back and maybe
placing a support of some type to fit the runners back on to.
This way there would be a well that the seat could fit into and then I could drastically lower the seat’s height. I understand that there would be systems underneath that would
need to be adjusted. But I am desperate and need to change
the seat height soon. Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks
I find the roof a little low too, though I don’t quite touch it under normal conditions.
I wouldn’t cut the floor or fit different seats. I’d be inclined to remove the seat pedestals and remove about an inch from their height. Once the seat has been removed, the pedestals can be unbolted from the floor to make this work easier. It should be possible to cut the pedestals horizontally and then overlap the two parts by an inch to bolt, rivet or weld them together at a lower height The seats can then be refitted atop the modified pedestals and the plastic trip panels cut to suit the new dimensions.
I would modify both seats in order to keep things looking as standard as possible.