PAS box bracket

The PAS box bracket is now fitted to the chassis.  It’s a 6mm steel plate pre-drilled for the box’s bolts (12mm), welded around its perimeter and then reinforced with gussets from each corner across the top and bottom of the chassis.  The chassis was drilled top and bottom in the centre of the areas defined by the gussets to spray waxoil over the the interior, covering the galvanising damaged by the heat from the welding.  The whole area was sprayed with several coats of red oxide, and once dry painted with Schutz.  The drilled holes were filled with grommets before the final coat of Schutz was applied.   That will dry overnight, allowing me to fit the box tomorrow.

 

 

Once the box is installed, I can get final measurements for the high pressure hose from the pump and the return line to the reservoir, and work out where to cut the hole in the inner wing for the lower steering column (and fit it).

The reservoir is installed, along with its low pressure feed to the pump.  The base of the reservoir is roughly level with the top of the pump, though the hose initially dips lower than that, so there should be enough of a head to gravity prime the pump.  I have also cut the ends of the original high pressure pipe and played around to get an idea of the routing.  I’ll either use a route similar to that shown, but with a bit more hose to loop through the gap between the oil cooler and its hard pipes, or just have a hose from the side of the pump bending vertically down for a vertical entry into the box, rather than using a banjo union.

I will probably use some plastic pipe cut diagonally to shield the exposed rear half of the lower column ad make up a box of thin aluminium or galvanised steel to cover the PAS box.  The windscreen washer bottle had to be removed to make way for the PAS box, previously sitting just above the chassis.  I will need to fabricate some brackets to move the bottle inboard and up, above the PAS box and adjacent to the relay bank, rather than under them.  I think I will try to add a splash guard to keep refilling easy without worrying about dowsing the relays and light wiring.

 

 

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Comments

  1. Harry Geoffrey samuel Hunt says:

    Hello mate great build, can I just ask why the factory 200tdi PAS mount is not suitable? Presumably it’s low with issues clashing with the series chassis?

    Regards,
    HH

  2. Hi Harry,

    The cradle for the alternator and PAS pump on the Discovery engine is quite wide and precluded installation in the SIII engine bay – it takes the space required for the intercooler pipes and air filter. I used a Series engine alternator mount on the initial engine fit, and there is no reason not to use the Defender 19J/200Tdi mounting which has the same alternator fitting plus the PAS pump, but would also need the additional crank pulleys and a bit of creativity to align the pulleys and set the tensions. I managed to get a bracket, but the pulleys are quite expensive, and the bracket is designed for the defender timing case and would need significant modification to attach to the block in the same way as the plain alternator mount. So, it’s possible to fit the pump in the Defender position on a Discovery engine, but would have been much more work than the solution I used, and considerably more expensive.

    I may yet do it, but probably only if I decide to fit air-conditioning as there would be no benefit otherwise. As it is, the belt arrangement takes some of the load off the water pump bearings and the hoses are the shortest option with no hydraulics crossing the engine bay. I am a little torn by the fact that the PAS pump isn’t adversely affected by water submersion, and that the alternator would be better protected where the PAS pump currently sits, but I don’t intend to wade deep water.

  3. Hi Nick
    Great info on all your mods – I have a question for you: My project is series 2 with disco 1 axles, new parabolics and power steering on a new Richards chassis. I have finished mocking up the axles – which is a game! My solution was to a) fit 1 ton shackles and b) to add a 10mm spacer under the YRM conversion saddles. This has allowed me to get 3 degrees of caster with plenty of space over the spring (I have actually set it at 3 1/2 degrees to allow for the weighting of the spring which should bring axle back to 3 degrees if my thought process is correct.

    My question is about PAS box. I originally ordered the chassis for a 4 hole box from the disco a) keep rods inboard of the spring and b) all gubbins inside chassis rails. BUT now on mock up it looks like the bottom of the disco box will foul the diff housing – so plan b go for a P38 box.

    Have you found any issues with using a P38 box with disco 1 axle, either in fitting or operation?

    Thanks

    Simon

  4. Hi Simon.

    I had absolutely no problems at all once I made the pump bracket stronger. The first attempt bent a bit, but the second was simpler and tougher, in the same position and still using a second pulley on the water pump.

    The steering is very light but somehow feels similar to the original steering, though without any slop or wander. It feels better and more stable than the steering on our 2009 90XS, which was in mint condition. The P38 system is a great mod that I should have done much sooner.

    One minor thing; once you have made up a drag link, is a slightly longer steering damper may be useful. I kept the SIII damper, and it is the limiting item in steering lock. You’ll be astonished, even with that limit, though, just how small a turning circle you’ll have, so it’s not an essential consideration.

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