Range Rover Engine Build

RR-Eng-build-Turner-unwrap The engine arrived back from Turner Engineering a couple of weeks ago.  Since then, I have been slowly building it back up with all the ancilliaries.

The engine was returned on a pallet and was wrapped in a tough polythene bag, packaged with a gasket and seal kit and a couple of 5l cans of running-in oil.  It looks gorgeous all cleaned up, the block and sump painted black and the ehad media blasted.  It’s a shame the rocker cover and timing case were only chemically cleaned, as their staining and slight surface corrosion let down the appearance of the unit, but from a functional perspective, they’re perfectly serviceable as is and they’d soon dull down again anyway.

RR-Eng-buildflywheelhousingI did have the flywheel casing, thermostat housing, water pump/PAS pump/alternator mounting and intake manifold bead and vapour blasted to clean them up anyway, and the new thermostat elbow (replaced for the aircon sensors) and water pump match the clean metal.  I cleaned up everything as best as I could for refitting, giving the engine mounts, pulleys, brackets and starter motor a fresh coat of satin black paint.

RR-Eng-build-clutchEverything has been reassembled with either thread lock or copper grease as appropriate, using a lot of new studs, nuts and bolts where the old ones were damaged or excessively corroded.  The clutch plate has been replaced with a new Valeo (original manufacturer) unit, and the water pump has been replaced to get rid of the usual 300Tdi squeal.  The timing case front cover is still at the local engineering shop for some work – the bearings for the fan idler shaft are a little worn, and the shaft and bearings are an odd size that won’t take standard bearings.  So, the cover is being machined and a new shaft made up to take off-the-shelf bearings to fix the fault now and to make future repair cheap and simple.  The work is costing £55 (+VAT) plus the price of the bearings, which are 42mm outside diameter, 17mm wide sealed needle bearings.  To replace the idler bearings with LR parts, you have to buy a complete timing cover/shaft assembly at a cost of £161+VAT (just under £195), so this long-term solution is less than half the price and also means that I won’t suffer Tata’s decision to stop supplying parts once existing stock is depleted.

RR-Eng-build-partial-rightRR-Eng-built-rear-leftI have refit all the above parts, save the front cover, and after inspection and cleaning with specific fluid, reinstated the EGR valve on the turbo charger.  The valve already seemed pretty clean before I used the fluid and the piston moves freely.  Filling the face of the valve with the cleaning fluid and allowing time for it to drain showed that it does in fact seal correctly, so it should work flawlessly.  There is a lot of misinformation about EGR valves and their effect on engine performance and economy, with blanking/removal kits being popular amongst LR enthusiasts.  The truth is that the valve only opens at idle or on the over-run with a warm engine, and so as long as the system is functioning correctly, it has no effect on performance or economy but can help reduce emissions.  So, it makes sense to refit it, especially as I want to restore the vehicle to factory spec (save for a few Vogue SE items).

RR-Eng-nearbuilt-front-leftThe injection pump still needs to be overhauled before it can be fitted.  It was bought second hand – it had been fitted to a MoD Wolf engine which was subsequently cast as it didn’t run.  It transpired the reason the engine didn’t run was the new pump itself – its internal timing was way off due to a Bosch assembly error.  I had that sorted out, but then found the top end was also faulty, not responding to the boost from the turbocharger.  I’ll get DieselBob Tuning to do it – he fixed the timing fault and did the 109’s pump previously.

RR-Eng-build-+acpumpI sat the aircon pump on the timing case just to get an idea of its layout.  It has picked up a bit of dust in the garage over the last few years, and the casing has some mild corrosion, so I might give it a spray of high temperature exhaust paint, which is aluminium based and will look right.

Once the engine is back together, with all the belts and pulleys fitted, it’ll be covered and sat at the back of the garage to allow me to sort out the Range Rover’s corroded inner wings and front panels.  As soon as they’re repaired/replaced and repainted, along with the chassis repainting, then it’ll go back in to make space for other work in the garage.

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  1. Hi Nick,

    The engine looks really good. (I do like seeing a clean engine in a vehicle, so much nicer than lifting the bonnet to find one that is covered in a mix of dirt and oil, especially if you have to carry out any work on it.) It will look even better once it’s surrounded by a refurbished Range Rover.



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