Range Rover Engine Removed

range-rover-enginepalletAfter a lot of effort, the engine has been removed from the Range Rover and is now on its way to Turner Engineering for a full rebuild, including a gas flowed head which should give increased performance or economy (one or the other, depending on driving style).

The engine was a pig to remove.  The engine bay is very crowded anyway, so I had to remove a lot of equipment to get at the fixings.  Particularly difficult to access were the bell housing nuts.  The bottom half aren’t too bad, but to get to the upper nuts I had to lower the engine down to rest on the axle, which required the removal of the engine mounts, steering box, prop shafts, gear levers and centre console (including the sound insulation, rubber gasket and heater ducts underneath it).  That wasn’t the end of the job, though – all of the bell housing nuts had been fitted dry by the mechanic who replaced the clutch over ten years ago, and he overtightened them with an air wrench.  I had to use my electric impact wrench on them all, and almost all of them rounded their heads, needing special Irwin nut extractors (bought specially for the job) to be hammered on to do the job.  Even then, the last nut, at the 1 o’clock position, was seized solid.  After an hour of effort with progressively smaller extractors ripping more and more of the nut off, I had to hammer a 10mm extractor onto the exposed stud and heat the flywheel housing in order to remove the stud and nut together.

range-rover-partsboxesWith the engine finally unbolted, it was lifted out of the engine bay with the 2-ton crane I bought a few months ago.  I was right to choose this bigger type as the smaller type more commonly used would not have had the lift to clear the engine over the radiator mounting, which is quite high.  The engine was then stripped of all the ancilliaries, including the flywheel and housing, all of the fuel system, the contents of the timing case save for the cam and crank sprockets, the cam gallery covers and even the manifold studs, temperature senders and hose connectors.  Once the engine was drained completely, it was laid on its side on a pallet, wrapped in a tarp.  It has been collected and is on the way to Turners, who will start work on it on Monday.

There is a lot of other work to do on the Range Rover strip down, but instead I plan to merely clean up the engine parts remaining in the garage in readiness to refit them when the engine comes back.  I hope to media blast all of the aluminium external engine parts, such as the timing case, water/PAS pump cradle, thermostat and flywheel housings to get them looking as smart as possible for the rebuild.  It’s not essential, but I’d like to have the overall finished car looking like new if I can, even though it never lasts!   I want to complete the engine rebuild first as it will free up a lot of other storage space and reduce the chances of me forgetting how to put it back together or losing parts.  It’s also good to have a complete item to use as a motivational or inspirational object.  Not everything needs replacing, but it does need new water and PAS pumps, and the fan pulley bearings in the front cover need renewing.  The alternator, vacuum pump, flywheel and fuel lift pump need nothing more than cleaning, but the fuel injectors need checking and their pump needs rebuilding, which is going to cost £400 or so.

range-rover-doorpillar-rustrange-rover-headlightmount=Once the engine is reassembled, I’ll continue with the strip down of the engine bay components, principally the braking system and the windscreen washer tank and pumps to clear the space for repairing the inner wings and head light mountings.  I have included a photo of the headlight mounts which shows untidy previous repair by a body shop and the front upper end of the driver’s door pillar, which is the part that most worries me – rust is deep set in the spot welded flange between the pillar and the side panel of the bulkhead, and has gone through to the inner pillar structure where the horizontal  box section (front wing mount and stiffener) meets the door pillar.   I’ll be using YRM Metal Solution’s panels for the repairs, along with sheet steel for the parts they don’t do.  I’m thinking about using 2-3mm wall thickness box tube for the sills, which I have seen done by others, as this will be stiffer for side impact protection and will not have the rust-prone spot welded flanges the standard sills have.  Those who have done this used 60x100mm box, so if that matches the measurements I take of the existing original sills, I’ll do that and use the YRM body mounts and door seal lips.

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  1. I’m looking forward to reading more about the RR refurb. You may even tempt me away from a Series for my next project 🙂

  2. They’re great cars, though the rear passengers don’t have much leg room if the front seats are slid back for occupants of 5’10” of more. The soft dash is particularly nice. They have the best on and off road ability of all the Land Rovers up to the L322 and Discovery 3, and are as iconic and classic as a Series I or II. Shame about the body shell rust, as mechanically they seem reasonably robust.

  3. Hi Nick,

    Was happy to hear that you had the engine out and stripped when you text me. If you want to borrow my grit blaster to clean down the engine ancilliaries or blast the bodyshell back to bare metal for the repairs feel free to use it. You will need to get some blast media for it though, I haven’t bought any for it yet as I’ve not moved on to repairing any steelwork on the lightweight.



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