Range Rover Strip Down

I have been spending the odd day here and there stripping down the body work on the Range Rover.  So far, I have removed the boot space interior,  lower tail gate, all lighting, bonnet, rear corners and wings, scuttle panel (under the windscreen), grille and right side step and sill cover.  The left sill cover and step are next.

The right side step is rotten, so both will be scrapped.  I won’t be replacing them as I feel they spoil the lines of the vehicle.  The bonnet and lower tail gate have been stripped of all their smaller parts so that the main panels can be acid bathed and e-coated.  I may do the same with the rear corners, all at the same time.

The work has exposed quite a lot of the inner shell, which is showing the usual problems of a Range Rover Classic or Discovery.  The rear ends of the sills and their body mounting brackets are rotten, and there are holes in the sills at the bottom of the B pillars.  The rear wheel arches need a few big patches where they are welded to the inner wings and behind the sills/rear foot wells.  The floor is better than most, but has rotted around its flanges where the spot welded joints have allowed water into the seams.  The rear body cross member seems solid, but the spot welded flange is blown behind each wheel.  So, all these will be replaced with new parts from YRM.  Thankfully, the bulkhead seems pretty good so far – the top panel, up til now hidden by the scuttle panel, seem rust free and will just need cleaning and painting.  There is a little rust at the upper vertical joint in the outside face of the bulkhead, but I think a little time with the wire brush attachments and some Jenolite will work well there.

The engine needs to come out soon.  Helena already paid Turner Engineering to rebuild it several months ago, and I don’t want to run into any admin issues over delays.  I’m confident that they won’t give me any grief though; they do have a good reputation for service as well as workmanship.  I’m a little worried about how to remove the engine, though – firstly, it’s not as easily accessible around the back, where it attaches to the gear box, as on a Series LR or Defender and, secondly, the engine will have to be lifted awfully high (the rad panel doesn’t unbolt like the Series and Defender), and I don’t know if rental engine cranes will do the job.  I need to do a little investigating on how best to remove it.



Be Sociable, Share!


  1. Hi Nick,

    I’m happy to see that you’ve started to document on here your strip down of the Classic. I hope you don’t find any major rot that makes you go ‘Oh no!’ , (In the strongest possible way.), as you progress.

    Work continues on my Para Recce project as and when. It took me a week on and off to strip the tailgate, refurb it, and put it back together. The bonnet is going to take me about the same time. I’ve had to take an enforced break from it for now as I need some C clamps larger than I have to hold it all together again when I bond it back together where the spotwelds have let go.

    Looking forwards to your next update mate.



  2. There are a few spots of minor concern, but when I see what others have managed to repair, it looks like I’m starting with a comparatively solid base. I might need your welding skills, though!

  3. I wouldn’t call them ‘skills’ compared to someone who does it for a living, I didn’t get much chance to practice in the day job as we had a metalsmith to do it for us, but I’m willing to help out if you want.



  4. Hi Nick. I managed to pull a 300TDi out of a Disco with a folding engine crane, the car was lifted on big tyres too. It helps to have a couple of mates on standby too.

    As you lift the engine, the suspension will relax and the car gets higher, you can control this by fitting spring compressors in situ. If the engine still won’t clear the radiator, let the tyres down.

    The bellhousing bolts are best accessed from underneath, you’ll need a couple of long socket extensions, I reached mine from behind the main gearbox with over a foot of extensions in place.

    Be careful, the engine is extremely heavy, more than any other car I’ve had including even the V8.

    Best of luck

  5. Thanks, Andrew.

    This was done about three years ago, now. The engine is still out, the whole vehicle in storage for when I return from my expat job.

    Good idea with the spring compressors.

    I couldn’t get the upper bell housing nuts off because some bell end had over tightened them and rounded them completely. A couple were wound all the way up cross threaded, too. Those stairs were replaced. Access was from the top after removing the engine brackets and PAS box to lower the engine way down.

Speak Your Mind


By continuing to use the site, you agree to the use of cookies. more information

The cookie settings on this website are set to "allow cookies" to give you the best browsing experience possible. If you continue to use this website without changing your cookie settings or you click "Accept" below then you are consenting to this.