Ready for the Alps

The last few details have been done. All the fluid levels have been checked, the correct operation of all vehicle functions (gears, handbrake, all electrics, doors and windows and so on) have been inspected, and the final arrangements for stowage made.

The left Jerrycan locker now holds its 20L water can, while the right locker is carrying all the lubricants. This comprises a 5L can of EP90 for all the transmission sections (plus a 1L bottle for use when filling), a 5L bottle of semi-synthetic 10W40 engine oil, a tub of grease, the grease gun, a 1L bottle of Dot 4 hydraulic fluid, a set of air, fuel and oil filters, and a length of garden hose for use in conjunction with the 1L bottle for refilling the gear box. It’s a nice, secure fit, with no rattles or knocks from loose articles.

The whole vehicle was washed and polished, partly to look good at the beginning of the trip, and partly to provide protection to the paintwork from the sea air on the sea crossing. Ideally, I should polish the windows with some Rain-X water repellent (I have some in the garage already). I’ll do it tomorrow if I can gather the enthusiasm.

I also filled all three tanks with diesel, much to the chagrin of the fairly busy forecourt (I did try to wait until it got quiet, but there were still queues at 19:30). I left twenty minutes and £210 later!

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  1. Hi there, love this site… giving me some tips.

    I was wondering if you made these side bins yourself or where they already built into your lanny like the military variants.

    I would love to do it on my 90 but wouldn’t know where to star !!

  2. They were taken from a scrapped MoD 110 tub and modified to suit the 109. The peg on the front edge of the frame and the locks in the doors were simple additions I made to prevent the theft of my fuel cans and oils.

    In order to fit the shorter space between the bulkhead and the rear wheel arch, the return flange on the diagonal section of the frame has to be trimmed off (you can just see where the aperture cut in the tub panel is actually inside of the diagonal section of the frame). The aperture needs to be cut right up to the back side of the bulkhead, but there is just enough room to fit the lockers. The cans fit without any trouble.

    The locker “floors” are made of galvanised steel and have a large angle bracket to secure them to the 110 chassis. This gets in the way of the 109 chassis, so has to be removed. The front edge of the floor has to be shortened to fit behind the support brackets on he tub support outriggers, but is left with enough length to be supported by that outrigger.

    When I first fit the lockers, those were the only alterations I had to make. However, during my rebuild, I added the rock sliders in lieu of the normal sill panels. Because these sliders protrude 30mm from the bodywork, the bottom of the door and the outer face of the steel angle aperture frame had to be trimmed to fit above the sill line, instead of overlapping it. Some people have their sills made with a stepped top surface to make way for unmodified can lockers, and this would have to be the case for those who use the later style of lockers as found on Wolf 110s and sold by Foley Special Vehicles.

    You wouldn’t be able to fit them to a 90 because there is too little space between the bulkhead and wheel arch for the length of the cans. However, I have seen vaguely similar storage for single cans stored laterally, instead of longitudinally, so the can still sits on its edge, but the handles and spouts are facing outward and the base is towards the centre of the vehicle. You should be able to fit one on each side like that, though you may have to either modify the tub floor plan to allow the depth of the 20L cans, or use smaller 10L fuel cans. You can then use 3mm marine alloy sheeting like I used in my tub’s reconstruction to make the doors, with stainless steel hinges and over-centre catches or antiluces to hold the door shut.


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